Titanic Diary - Part 4


8th August 2000

15.00 hrs.

The ship is gently rocking, while the subs are being prepared for tomorrow's dive.

And I'm going.

It's hard to describe the feelings I have. From the moment I received written confirmation that I was working on this Expedition, I have naturally nurtured the hope that the opportunity to visit Titanic would come my way. I have been involved with diving since 1976, and for many divers this would be The Ultimate Dive. Trepidation, excitement, a little guilt, these feelings wash over me. Why the guilt? Sean is not on the list for this dive. We've developed into a good team, and I'm sorry that he won't be there to share in the experience, not just of the dive, but also in the placing of the Memorial Plaque. He will be there with me in spirit, and besides, I need his digital camera. We're still hoping that he will make it later in the next week. I know that he is disappointed, and so am I.

In other ways, I've come full circle. Ralph White is co-pilot, a friend who I first met in 1988 when I tracked him down to speak at Underwater Ireland about Titanic. He has become a regular visitor to our shores over the years. Significantly, this will be his 30th dive to Titanic, so it's going to be a special day for him as well. Our first stop will be the bridge where we will place the plaque. We will then continue our journey to bring back for the world to experience, the wonders that were Titanic. I'm not unaware of the controversy that surrounds this expedition. What I can say is that perhaps in as little as 10 years time there may not be anything to record of this once magnificent liner. We are a curious species, and have always asked questions. We draw upon the past to gain insight into the future. What I have seen being recovered deserves to be seen by all. One day we will have a Titanic exhibition in Ireland. Without the risks and costs being put into these types of expeditions, we wouldn't have that opportunity to see for ourselves the golden age of the Edwardian period.

This morning an historic and symbolic occasion took place. The QE2 diverted 400 miles en route to New York to pass over the site. As she loomed out of the early morning mist, the White Star Line Flag was flying from the foremast of Keldysh. This luxury liner is owned by Cunard, the company that took over the White Star Line. She is around the same size as Titanic, and we could see that her decks were teeming with passengers, all gathered on the starboard side to record this moment. As she passed within a short distance of our bows, signalling us with three long and one short blast of her whistles, Keldysh acknowledged in reply. Cameras were flashing by the dozens from her decks, as once again QE2 signalled us with a final blast. Rendering honours at sea is a rare event these days, but the significance of this meeting should not be underestimated. The flag on our foremast also flew from the QE2 in 1988 when she entered New York. The flag belongs to Denis Cochrane, our historian, who is on first term names with the Master of QE2, Captain Warwick. It was he who organised this meeting at sea. Within 24 hours he has seen both the Titanic and the QE2 at the same location. I will also be privileged to have this experience.

Now I am preparing myself for the journey tommorrow. There is an art form that has become a cult on these trips. It is called Titanic Art. Taking polystyrene cups and engraving dedications and illustrations of MIR subs on them with indelible felt tip pens, they are placed in net bags and tied on the outside of the sub. At 3,875 metres deep the pressure reduces them to a fraction of their original size. I have made over 50 at this stage and terrified about who I may have forgotten. My wife Anne, our children - Ralph, Ryan and Lysette, my own crew on board Flagship Scuba - Catherine, Shane, Anne, Pat, Reuben, Gerry Ryan, of course... the list goes on.

There will be very little liquid drunk tonight, and if curry is on the menu, I'll be sticking to bread. Remember, there are no bathroom facilities on board the MIRs. Mind Over Bladder Control is the mantra all those who board must chant beforehand.

I am of course looking forward to driving Ralph nuts with my choice of music. Yes, we have a CD player on board - no toilet, but a CD player. Top of the list is my favourite - "Always Look on the Bright Side of Life". Are you aware that Ireland is the only country in the world that it got to Number 1? There's one for the music trivia collectors. You can blame me for that. Yes, the " Monty Python Sings" album will be in full flight on our descent. I only hope that Ralph doesn't decide to make me join the polystyrene cups.

Outside the Russian crew are preparing a mini ROV. This is for descending into the hold of the bow section with a camera to see what further state the interior is in. The Oceaneering vessel left us a few days ago, owing to technical difficulties, and our hosts are taking up the slack with great enthusiasm.

At 18.00 hrs. we will have our dive plan briefing, with the targets designated to each sub. At this point I know that we will be working in the bow area, retrieving large objects. After all, I am diving with Captain Hernia. One of the main targets though, is a small oval plaque about 9 inches long and 5 inches high. It is the commissioning plaque for Titanic, placed below the bridge originally, but spotted, we think on the deck below. This, too, would be an historic find.

It is now 17.00 hrs. and time for more preparations. We have been informed that a hurricane is on it's way. The dive will take place, but we move off site tomorrow night as she is due to hit us on Saturday. I have the utmost trust and faith in our Russian team. If I didn't, there would be no point in making this journey that awaits me.

Logging off, I look forward to recalling my experience when I return tomorrow night. To my family and friends, thank you all for your support in this last year. Share with me in this moment, it is an honour to be the first Irish diver to visit Titanic - the Ship of Dreams.